Harry Winston, Histoire de Tourbillon 3, tri-dimensional review.

Pifpaf

The mostexplosive “ highlight “ of these Genevan festivities was not in a hotel,at the GTE or at the SIHH.
: J2 h' }$ [  q4 O# lIt waspresented absolutely “ off the record “, directly at the HarryWinston manufactory, located at Plan-Les-Ouates, during the “Histoire deTourbillon 3” presentation.
$ T4 S2 L, w: t: Z; C$ JIt is theblast of this “ Wonder Week “, when creativity seems to be ratheridle; this “Histoire de Tourbillon 3” arrives with audacity and comes seamlesslyafter the outstanding Opus Eleven of Baselworld.

9 _1 X/ G( d: H3 H; \5 a[IMG][url=http://www.watchonista.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/encapsulated_1000x0/watchographer/2914/albums/harry_winston_histoire_de_tourbillon_3_2.jpg%5b/IMG%5d%5b/URL]http://www.watchonista.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/encapsulated_1000x0/watchographer/2914/albums/harry_winston_histoire_de_tourbillon_3_2.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

From amechanical standpoint, it is a synthesis between the inclined Double tourbillonwith differential of “Histoire de Tourbillon 1” and the bi-axial flyingtourbillon of “Histoire de Tourbillon 2”.
“ Histoirede Tourbillon 3 “ comprises two escapements: one rotary and one singleaxis, both connected through a differential. If the technical side is anevolution from the previous “ Histoires de Tourbillons “, the outsideborrows a lot from the Opus series, by proposing something never before seen inthe domain of rotary tourbillon with Grande complication.

3 t5 L. c/ L: FA video,without sound, let’s play your favorite music, and enjoy the show:

http://www.youtube.com/embed/XcsUt37l3Oc

[IMG][url=http://www.watchonista.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/encapsulated_1000x0/watchographer/2914/albums/harry_winston_histoire_de_tourbillon_3_8.jpg%5b/IMG%5d%5b/URL]http://www.watchonista.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/encapsulated_1000x0/watchographer/2914/albums/harry_winston_histoire_de_tourbillon_3_8.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

The layout,the volumes and design in general were intended to highlight the tourbillons.
While thetechnology of tourbillon exploded throughout the last 10 years, always pushingfurther the concepts of mobility and tri-dimensional architectures, theexterior designs were never overhauled in order to match these technologicalfeats.
Sometimes,one perceives the typical Helvetian temptation to close the dials, in order to “ coverthat regulating organ which I can’t endure to look on” (remember all theseclassical or tridimensional tourbillons, with dark grey dials screen-printedwith an austere light gray “Tourbillon” label).
/ e0 G: Z6 l' KThe logicof the creators of Harry Winston was totally different: instead of drawing fromthe Swiss functionalism, they drew from the lively New-Yorker culture in orderto exalt the complication, by providing it with a case worthy of the sculpturesdisplayed in art galleries from the Chelsea district.


      
- D4 b$ u! j& RBeyondvolumes and prospectives, the weight is surprising. The watch comprises whitegold for the top part and Zallium (an alloy of Zirconium) for the middle; asone can expect, it weighs more than 250 grams.
( z4 s4 D2 {8 k1 I/ k6 G/ MIt is bulky;its weight as well as the movements of the three tourbillons make itunforgettable in everyday life.
- y  ]  r2 Z( Q2 C; ]It is a bitof the horological equivalent of a Supercar, ill adapted to cities; however,the road would be utterly boring with city cars only. In the same way, here weare in the domain of the Super-Watch.

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+ p+ V1 B, T# k  d! z, MThe TV screenshaped watchcase, dear to some independents, makes for a good distribution ofthe mass along the wrist (the watch is 65mm by 45.9mm), and in spite of itsbulk, the watch remains wearable;
However, donot expect it to slip under the cuffs of your shirt.
In alllikelihood, if you can bear the superlative price of this watch, you will beable to afford a wardrobe adapted to this machine.


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The timedisplay is a model of simplicity: the hour/minutes are displayed at 12 o’clockand 1 o’clock, while the Power reserve sits at 5 o’clock.
- Z! \7 X  a! p$ B# w) lYou willnotice that the indicators are in French, a proof that Harry Winston is eagerto demonstrate that the brand is rooted in French-speaking Switzerland. While thetexts are written in French (a reminder of the Swiss roots of HW) and thecomplications in Romand, the design is resolutely New Yorker.
Of course,the shape borrows from science fiction, Cyberpunk leading the pace, with itstechnical and chromed look.
% z( I7 s1 s8 ^% J  G& Z; \, l$ AHowever, criticswill inevitably see this design as that of electronics from the 80’s, from theGhetto Blaster to the NES joystick. It is nonetheless an excellent alternative wayto interpret this styling.
) d" A% [5 W& }' ]& o. WThis designunquestionably borrows from the Pop ‘art, whose roots are mainly New Yorker-like,same as Harry Winston.
3 o, U2 L6 j4 pFor thatmatter, the exterior of this piece takes more after Contemporary Art than afterwatchmaking.
; g2 D, _+ \+ B4 b2 EAndy Warholwouldn’t have disavowed the raked shapes, the salient angles and the absolutelystunning tridimensional look of the watch when one wears it.
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: G- I: [- J  Z+ UAs a matterof fact, when one sees the Triple Tourbillon, the hour display (at 12 and 1o’clock) becomes totally peripheral.
It is theultimate avatar of the luxury mechanical watchmaking! Indeed, by getting rid ofthe traditional getup of watchmaking, the HdT3 highlights the movements of thetriple tourbillon.
Since theadvent of quartz, the utilization of mechanical solutions falls underaesthetics and/or dandyism.
Here, morethan ever, the precision time is no more than a pretext to erect a mechanicalcathedral.
) R/ V7 p8 C: q/ O1 n8 e& XThebuilders are the same as for the HdT1 & HdT2, Steve Forsey & RobertGreubel, via CompliTime; the exclusive tourbillon developed for Harry Winstonworks in way a bit different from the regulating organs inclined at 24°, fromGF.
7 f& ^* ?. d2 J6 G/ z; f4 W2 ?1 ]* TTheprinciple would be closer to a mix of the bi-axial tourbillon from ThomasPrescher and of the rotary escapement block from the Officine Panerai.
The work onthe « main » tourbillon is more than astounding: the externaltourbillon carriage rotates 360° every 120 seconds. Quite common.
But! Asecond tourbillon carriage going around in 40 seconds is fitted perpendicularlyand carries the balance and the escapement wheel. Hence, this last itemcontinuously rotates in three dimensions.
This doubletourbillon is paired with a classical tourbillon, which goes around in 36seconds on a single axis (located at 6 o’clock). The energy yielded by the twoescapements combines through the ingenious differential gear, in order totransmit an average power to the display.
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Finally, ifcertain parts of the device have already been tested (especially in the HT1& HT2), it is the first time a tri-dimensional tourbillon is connected witha single axis tourbillon through a differential gear, revolutionary!



In a periodwhen the watchmaking industry minimizes the risks, Harry Winston creates thesensation with the HdT3, which, like the Opus11, is more than a “talkingpiece”: it is a reference to philosophical and artistic concepts unexpected inwatchmaking.
* v; k/ ?: @( i/ m4 sNevertheless,regarding HW, it is first and foremost the moment when the exceptional Opusseries fuses with the other collections. To be continued…   

北京爹

看着就横！！！;P ;P ;P ;P

niuyayidabi

这表是在是太前卫了

脸疯

一个基础中心陀飞
一个双轴立体陀飞
如此前卫的设计
赞一个！