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Harry Winston, Histoire de Tourbillon 3, tri-dimensional review. [复制链接]

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发表于 2012-2-9 18:51:54 |只看该作者 |倒序浏览
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The mostexplosive “ highlight “ of these Genevan festivities was not in a hotel,at the GTE or at the SIHH.
" Y/ M2 }' |; uIt waspresented absolutely “ off the record “, directly at the HarryWinston manufactory, located at Plan-Les-Ouates, during the “Histoire deTourbillon 3” presentation.3 u( W, h/ P! c( G7 x
It is theblast of this “ Wonder Week “, when creativity seems to be ratheridle; this “Histoire de Tourbillon 3” arrives with audacity and comes seamlesslyafter the outstanding Opus Eleven of Baselworld.5 z  z: I3 e2 i2 S% e8 c

4 F, e: @: U$ n0 X$ ]0 y[IMG][url=http://www.watchonista.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/encapsulated_1000x0/watchographer/2914/albums/harry_winston_histoire_de_tourbillon_3_2.jpg%5b/IMG%5d%5b/URL]http://www.watchonista.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/encapsulated_1000x0/watchographer/2914/albums/harry_winston_histoire_de_tourbillon_3_2.jpg[/IMG][/URL], `; D0 _& b  o6 C

3 @4 v3 g3 E# Y7 E0 ^: ?/ X, ~From amechanical standpoint, it is a synthesis between the inclined Double tourbillonwith differential of “Histoire de Tourbillon 1” and the bi-axial flyingtourbillon of “Histoire de Tourbillon 2”.4 K  k/ V! ?6 b' M3 H
“ Histoirede Tourbillon 3 “ comprises two escapements: one rotary and one singleaxis, both connected through a differential. If the technical side is anevolution from the previous “ Histoires de Tourbillons “, the outsideborrows a lot from the Opus series, by proposing something never before seen inthe domain of rotary tourbillon with Grande complication.
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A video,without sound, let’s play your favorite music, and enjoy the show: ' L9 ^3 a1 Z' k( I$ Q" J8 v
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http://www.youtube.com/embed/XcsUt37l3Oc
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5 d$ u2 Q! g* t1 K[IMG][url=http://www.watchonista.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/encapsulated_1000x0/watchographer/2914/albums/harry_winston_histoire_de_tourbillon_3_8.jpg%5b/IMG%5d%5b/URL]http://www.watchonista.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/encapsulated_1000x0/watchographer/2914/albums/harry_winston_histoire_de_tourbillon_3_8.jpg[/IMG][/URL]/ f4 o" X$ T# v& t8 I- M
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The layout,the volumes and design in general were intended to highlight the tourbillons.# U3 l% Y* ~, }2 z0 i
While thetechnology of tourbillon exploded throughout the last 10 years, always pushingfurther the concepts of mobility and tri-dimensional architectures, theexterior designs were never overhauled in order to match these technologicalfeats.
* O% s; ]5 i; [3 `. f6 X- ASometimes,one perceives the typical Helvetian temptation to close the dials, in order to “ coverthat regulating organ which I can’t endure to look on” (remember all theseclassical or tridimensional tourbillons, with dark grey dials screen-printedwith an austere light gray “Tourbillon” label).0 F; Q$ n1 Q" _4 _
The logicof the creators of Harry Winston was totally different: instead of drawing fromthe Swiss functionalism, they drew from the lively New-Yorker culture in orderto exalt the complication, by providing it with a case worthy of the sculpturesdisplayed in art galleries from the Chelsea district.
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Beyondvolumes and prospectives, the weight is surprising. The watch comprises whitegold for the top part and Zallium (an alloy of Zirconium) for the middle; asone can expect, it weighs more than 250 grams.
" V8 c& B0 m! @# a9 B- wIt is bulky;its weight as well as the movements of the three tourbillons make itunforgettable in everyday life.
( e" |) J9 Y% q. Y' g2 E9 qIt is a bitof the horological equivalent of a Supercar, ill adapted to cities; however,the road would be utterly boring with city cars only. In the same way, here weare in the domain of the Super-Watch.9 |2 P+ [5 G) j/ k% y
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( j! H! v' ^! l; W% P  u, NThe TV screenshaped watchcase, dear to some independents, makes for a good distribution ofthe mass along the wrist (the watch is 65mm by 45.9mm), and in spite of itsbulk, the watch remains wearable;
5 ^1 u" q( e* a4 E0 aHowever, donot expect it to slip under the cuffs of your shirt.
) ^7 j$ K; ?+ P( hIn alllikelihood, if you can bear the superlative price of this watch, you will beable to afford a wardrobe adapted to this machine. ( r# U8 o9 q8 V8 t: s# d  ]
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, W! a5 Z4 [, ZThe timedisplay is a model of simplicity: the hour/minutes are displayed at 12 o’clockand 1 o’clock, while the Power reserve sits at 5 o’clock.
4 [- W% x; b. l, \6 U+ O6 s5 T( q) m4 @You willnotice that the indicators are in French, a proof that Harry Winston is eagerto demonstrate that the brand is rooted in French-speaking Switzerland. While thetexts are written in French (a reminder of the Swiss roots of HW) and thecomplications in Romand, the design is resolutely New Yorker.3 [: J9 @9 O; L9 F) }; J) p7 B  u* E
Of course,the shape borrows from science fiction, Cyberpunk leading the pace, with itstechnical and chromed look.5 t! o% w4 l. s% c0 z( b  o
However, criticswill inevitably see this design as that of electronics from the 80’s, from theGhetto Blaster to the NES joystick. It is nonetheless an excellent alternative wayto interpret this styling.
1 \4 B1 C7 B4 P( cThis designunquestionably borrows from the Pop ‘art, whose roots are mainly New Yorker-like,same as Harry Winston.. U; k, K4 x) V9 P/ K( l2 g
For thatmatter, the exterior of this piece takes more after Contemporary Art than afterwatchmaking.  |; Y6 w2 B0 o& s, s  }9 h  d% m. g
Andy Warholwouldn’t have disavowed the raked shapes, the salient angles and the absolutelystunning tridimensional look of the watch when one wears it." l+ P# k& E: n. M) B- ^; W2 V) Q8 P

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4 J3 T# \! e9 T9 qAs a matterof fact, when one sees the Triple Tourbillon, the hour display (at 12 and 1o’clock) becomes totally peripheral.
% C- `: U8 Y1 J' z' X# u7 bIt is theultimate avatar of the luxury mechanical watchmaking! Indeed, by getting rid ofthe traditional getup of watchmaking, the HdT3 highlights the movements of thetriple tourbillon.
2 c- S! N* X. L0 j. c9 K6 nSince theadvent of quartz, the utilization of mechanical solutions falls underaesthetics and/or dandyism.
5 S* `4 t% y; CHere, morethan ever, the precision time is no more than a pretext to erect a mechanicalcathedral.# o6 B/ q% X& r' n. r7 J
Thebuilders are the same as for the HdT1 & HdT2, Steve Forsey & RobertGreubel, via CompliTime; the exclusive tourbillon developed for Harry Winstonworks in way a bit different from the regulating organs inclined at 24°, fromGF.
. q( U" i# Q; z  W7 @- q+ m: U! kTheprinciple would be closer to a mix of the bi-axial tourbillon from ThomasPrescher and of the rotary escapement block from the Officine Panerai.
) \0 {' _! B- hThe work onthe « main » tourbillon is more than astounding: the externaltourbillon carriage rotates 360° every 120 seconds. Quite common.
: l9 `4 P% M4 Q, w8 a1 R+ gBut! Asecond tourbillon carriage going around in 40 seconds is fitted perpendicularlyand carries the balance and the escapement wheel. Hence, this last itemcontinuously rotates in three dimensions.! C6 j- C# g5 t( j) t
This doubletourbillon is paired with a classical tourbillon, which goes around in 36seconds on a single axis (located at 6 o’clock). The energy yielded by the twoescapements combines through the ingenious differential gear, in order totransmit an average power to the display.
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Finally, ifcertain parts of the device have already been tested (especially in the HT1& HT2), it is the first time a tri-dimensional tourbillon is connected witha single axis tourbillon through a differential gear, revolutionary!
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! B$ o7 |  S" ^5 g" R" i' W+ NIn a periodwhen the watchmaking industry minimizes the risks, Harry Winston creates thesensation with the HdT3, which, like the Opus11, is more than a “talkingpiece”: it is a reference to philosophical and artistic concepts unexpected inwatchmaking.6 m7 Y2 I8 a* D" e/ G- `: X5 h; f2 @
Nevertheless,regarding HW, it is first and foremost the moment when the exceptional Opusseries fuses with the other collections. To be continued…   5 G4 f: |6 h5 V2 y5 ?- H( o; u+ K
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发表于 2012-2-17 16:13:39 |只看该作者
看着就横!!!;P ;P ;P ;P

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发表于 2012-6-19 19:49:20 |只看该作者
这表是在是太前卫了

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发表于 2014-8-27 01:20:23 |只看该作者
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发表于 2014-11-21 23:21:42 |只看该作者
一个基础中心陀飞0 K( q: y6 B, p5 F6 [: H) T
一个双轴立体陀飞
: G, R4 X9 V- s2 r- k! U4 h如此前卫的设计4 ~0 `; s% w  K6 f: A7 C
赞一个!

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