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10、Tact Watch (触觉表)
Watch equipped with a system invented by Breguet enabling the wearer to tell the time by touch. A pointer on the outside of the case reproduces the position of the hour hand of the watch. Having felt the position of this pointer, the wearer can then deduce the time from its position in relation to studs placed in alignment with the hours. Sold from 1799, the tact watch (sometimes known as the "watch for the blind") was to lend itself to rich and varied ornamentation (including, for instance, enamel, pearls and diamonds). With a few exceptions, the tact system was confined - for obvious reasons -to simple, or non-striking, watches.
觸覺錶是因其特殊報時所用的方法而命名的,它藉由鑲嵌在錶殼邊緣的接觸片(touch pieces)去感覺錶殼前面板指針所在位置,進而得知時間。上圖錶款的接觸片是鑲嵌在錶殼邊緣的鑽石,而指針是以箭頭形式裝在可翻轉底蓋上。前面的小錶盤可目視讀時並可設定時間。觸摸式指針在前錶蓋上,旋開時,即觸及錶盤指針及其小型保護裝置,後者是為預防更進一步轉動並讓觸摸式指針保持正確時間。一邊是觸摸式指針(tact hand)而另一邊是錶盤視窗(visual dial),如此安排是為避免因不小心用觸摸式指針轉動齒輪,而攪亂了時間,同時指針只能撥往一方向。但單指針錶的錶盤是否有這種特色,全視其機械構造而定。有人說觸覺錶是一款較便宜的問錶,因為在性質上,它們的功能和問錶相同,但觸覺錶卻能在黑暗中讀取時間。雖然使用上比問錶複雜,但在設計上卻非常時髦流行。在當時,具品味的年輕人喜歡戴它的原因是,在一些正式的場合中,只要藉由觸摸懷中的觸覺錶,便可不著痕跡地知道正確的時間。
11、Souscription watch(单指针表)
Simple watch of relatively large diameter (61mm), with a single hand and enamel dial, equipped with a special movement of great simplicity. Launched by means of a publicity brochure in 1797, it was marketed on a subscription basis, with down-payment of a quarter of the price with each order. Reliable and affordable, the souscription watch enjoyed great success and attracted many new clients. Somme 700 examples were made, with either gold or silver cases. Breguet used the calibre of the souscription watch to make his first tact watches.
在法國大革命之後,經濟蕭條,寶璣為了重振他的鐘錶生意,早日步上軌道,便研發 出此種只有單指針,但擁有高素質機芯的懷錶。在早期剛推出這種單指針錶初期, 廣告上強調的是它的平價但搭配有高素質機芯,且在付款的條件上,是以分期付款的 方式來吸引顧客。且據參考文獻指出,大部分的單指針懷錶均於錶面12點鐘位置下方有秘密寶璣簽名(secret signature for a souscription watch)。
12、Sympathique Clock (恒定座钟)
Conceived by Breguet in 1795 and presented to the public for the first time at the national exhibition of 1798, the sympathique clock was a system comprising a clock and a watch. The clock was designed to hold the watch which, when placed in a recess, was automatically adjusted and reset. The term "sympathique" was chosen by Breguet to express the notion of harmony and concord, "sympathy" being used in its mystical sense to signify the universal prinicipe which unites in harmonious accord the organs of the human body, the human race and the cosmos. Although the sympathique clock enhanced Breguet's fame, it remained complex and costly to make. A.-L. Breguet sold only five examples, all different, before his death in 1823, and Antoine-Louis only one, in 1830. All were bought by kings or princes.
When Louis-Clément Breguet took over the reins of the firm in 1833, he lost no time in patenting the sympathique clock, with an extra clause concerning the rewinding of the watch in addition to adjustment of the hour. Now considerably more attractive because of the new rewinding function, the second generation of sympathique clock was to generate some fifty sales. Finally, in 1991, a third generation of sympathique clocks appeared, offering the new feature of resetting and rewinding a wristwatch.
13、Mechanism of the “Reveil Du Star” (沙皇小闹)
The watch introduces two patented devices: a column-wheel mechanism to activate or deactivate the alarm, and a system to ensure the alarm time corresponds to local time.
这是当时市场上最典雅、功能最齐全的机械表之一。1813年宝矶奉命为俄罗斯沙皇亚历山大制造一只功能齐全的手表,甚至还要求在手表上要有计步器以测试部队行军的节奏。
[ 本帖最后由 adamtwinsen 于 2009-3-28 16:30 编辑 ] |
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