宝玑的“第一次”

adamtwinsen

号称“表王”，因为其创始人路易.宝玑先生有着太多的关于腕表的第一次发明——这是宝玑版块的一句话简介。
       大家都知道A.-L. Breguet 先生是现代钟表业之父，但是究竟宝玑众多的第一次都是什么呢？就让本帖为大家一一道来吧。



1、Tourbillon （陀飞轮）
The tourbillon is a device once used to eliminate the effects of gravity on the rate of a watch.
A watch balance will go fast or slow depending on the position of the watch. Breguet got around the problem by rotating the entire balance and escapement about their common axis once a minute. The constant rotation averages out all the positional errors.
A.-L. Breguet received a patent from France's ministry of the interior for a new regulating device known as the tourbillon on June 26, 1801.
The document was dated according to the republican calendar of the time, 7 Messidor, Year IX.

The tourbillon is not only one of the most famous of Breguet's inventions, but one of the most difficult to realise. Two centuries later it remains a technical tour de force of which very few watchmakers are capable. The prestigious tourbillon models in the current Breguet collection demonstrate why this pivotal device has lost none of its fascination.

200th anniversary model （陀飞轮200周年纪念款：breguet 1801BR）



Watches with tourbillon （几款宝玑的陀飞轮）

3355PT



5317BA


5357PT


5335BR




陀飛輪機制是寶璣大師於1795年的發明，並且於1801年正式取得專利。其結構是將擺輪與擒縱機制設計在一個旋轉的框架上，透過360度的旋轉可以抵消在不同重心的情況下，因地心引力所引起的誤差，進而使懷錶的運行更為精確。儘管這樣的機制是為了一般垂直擺放的懷錶而設計，對戴在手上無固定姿態的腕錶來說實用性很低，然而現今的陀飛輪腕錶亦所在多有，原因無他，只因為陀飛輪代表了崇高的製錶工藝。綜合以上所述，寶璣的發明在鐘錶史上確實佔有極為重要的位置。

[ 本帖最后由 adamtwinsen 于 2009-3-28 16:20 编辑 ]

睡觉

好贴，我来顶！哈哈

adamtwinsen

2、First Chronograph （第一只记时计）
The chronomètre à doubles secondes or observation chronometer, developed in 1820, anticipated the modern chronograph.
It permitted the precise measurement of intermediate periods, or the length of time taken by two simultaneous events.
Later, with Fatton, one of his most gifted pupils, Breguet built the inking chronograph in 1822.
A seconds hand could deposit a minuscule drop of ink on the white enamel dial as required.
This ingenious principle gave rise to the term 'chronograph', from chronos meaning 'time' and graphein 'to write'.

计时码表  除了走时以外，还可以单独记录某件事情的所用的时间，表面有记录不同时间的小针指示盘
（附：很多表厂都宣称自己发明了第一只记时计，所以存疑。。。）




3、The First Wristwatch （第一只腕表！）
The first true wristwatch (that is, conceived from the outset to be worn on the wrist) was created in the Breguet workshops in response to a commission from the Queen of Naples dated June 8th 1810. Breguet watch no. 2639 took two years and a half to complete. It was of revolutionary construction and unprecedented sophistication, consisting of a repeating watch with additional refinements, oblong and exceptionally slender, with a wristlet made of hair intertwined with gold thread.
Only towards the end of the 19th century did it begin to achieve popularity. Women adopted it first, and then soldiers, attracted by its practical aspects. In the early years of the 20th century it was further promoted by the daring pioneers of aviation and the automobile industry, and began to supplant the pocket watch. Today, it is difficult to imagine everyday life without this most convenient of Breguet's innovations.

故事梗概：
仔细观察流行趋势，会发现无论是什么风潮，几乎都是由女性来带动的，只有腕表（机械腕表）是男性带动的。但是恐怕谁也想不到，世界上第一支腕表，却是应一位皇后之请，宝玑经过了两年时间创造出来的手镯表。
从17世纪以来，一直以怀表为主流，此种设计符合贵族绅士们将表放在西装马甲的口袋中的习惯，其配饰的作用也大于报时的功能。但是这种设计也有很多不便，因为女士们的服装是没有口袋的，导致一款怀表在女士们那里“无处藏身”，这不得不让当时的淑媛们煞费苦心。
直到1810年，那不勒斯皇后向宝玑提出了要求——以手镯为基础形状，制作一款女性腕表，兼具手镯装饰效果与腕表计时功能。应皇后之请，2年后，世界上第一支腕表诞生了。而这支腕表最终形成了宝玑表中著名的Reine de Naples系列。

让我们向Reine de Naples系列致敬！





[ 本帖最后由 adamtwinsen 于 2009-3-28 16:21 编辑 ]

血拼

宝玑的科技是很原创的啊。

tim仔

受教了

学了不是新知识

谢谢前辈 :P

baopotomo

不愧是表王~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

波尔师士

宝玑就是宝玑[s:102] [s:102] [s:102]

jxc512

钟表界的传奇品牌。[s:93]

adamtwinsen

4、Self-winding （自动上链）
Perpetual movement
As from 1771 circa, Breguet began work on a watch that would wind itself without the aid of a key or any other external source. The perfection of this system was the first major success of his career. At a time when several of his contemporaries were engaged in work on the problem without achieving any convincing results, he became the first to discover, through his oscillating platinum-weight watch, a formula which would produce a reliable automatic watch.
In 1780, Breguet started producing his perpétuelles watches commercially, selling among the first examples to the Duke of Orléans, cousin of King Louis XVI, and to Queen Marie-Antoinette.
The perpétuelle remains today one of the most powerful symbols of A.-L. Breguet's phenomenal creative genius.



Watches with selfwinding（部分自动上链的宝玑）

5930BA



3130BA


嚴格來說，自動上鍊懷錶雖然不是寶璣所發明的，但由於他的改良，使得它更臻完美，且奠定了寶璣日後將來成功的基礎。事實證明，自動上鍊懷錶是西元1765年左右在瑞士發明的，但這項創舉並未完全的成功。主要是因上鍊的作用效果不佳，所以寶璣針對此項缺點，加以改善，並加入他創業的全新理念，他首先運用兩個主發條盒(mainspring barrels)，並利用白金平衡錘(weight of platinum，類似近代的自動盤)為軸，固定在底蓋板邊。但此平衡錘的採用須審慎仔細，才能使每一機芯達到最精密準確的效果(因為當發條上緊時會鎖住平衡錘使其靜止不動) 。據一些參考文獻記載，寶璣式的自動上鍊懷錶，其機芯的基本結構為兩個發條盒囓合小齒輪與傳動中心輪，其比率大約是發條盒轉動4圈能使中心輪轉60圈。由於轉動圈數比發條盒使錶運轉24小時所需的2圈少，所以可供利用的動力會更均衡。再者，它的優點是2條發條打製得更細，自然地各自所需的動力也相對減少，所以增加了可利用的圈數，甚至使動力的持久性延長。小過輪的軸心摩擦因兩個發條盒的聯結而消除，同時由於發條盒輪齒交替囓合中心線上的小齒輪，致使小齒輪的齒數效力倍增。這種設計在效率上完美無瑕，且在技術上也相當出色。



5、The Equation of Time （时间等式）
Reaching for the stars
In recent years, Breguet's successors have taken the founder's achievements yet further, conceiving and patenting a movement with equation of time and calendar, both functions being perpetual and automatically self-correcting over a period of more than a century. Granted on April 17th 1991, the patent underlines the Breguet firm's continuing passion for invention.

As it rotates round the sun, our planet travels an irregular, elliptic course. Its wayward orbit inevitably results in days of uneven length, varying from 23 hours 44 minutes to 24 hours 14 minutes. This is apparent solar time - not really practical for an organised society.

watches with equation of time
3477BA


故事梗概：眾所周知的，古人計算時間分為陰曆和陽曆，前者以月亮、後者以太陽為依據。辜不論何者為優，現今的文明社會是立基於太陽曆。然而，地球繞太陽一圈並非正圓形，地球亦非以軸心正對太陽公轉。因此，我們所熟知的一天24小時，其實真正是大約23小時56分又4秒，因此會有閏年的發生。而且，您手錶上指示的正午十二點也不是太陽真正「日正當中」的時候。做個小試驗便知道：先調校準確您手腕上的手錶，12點的時候，走到戶外有陽光的地方，如果太陽剛好在正上方，那麼鐘錶時間剛好是真正的太陽時間；如果太陽位在您的東方，那麼equation of time是負(negative) 的；反之，若在西方則equation of time是正 (positive) 的。當然很容易猜到您看到真的「日正當中」的機會不高，因為一年中僅有四月十五、六月十四、九月一日和十二月二十四日四天，平均太陽時間和真正太陽時間是一致的。其餘的時候，誤差可大到二月十一日的正 (快) 14分22秒到十一月四日的負 (慢) 16分23秒。

平均太陽時間 和真正太陽時間之間的差距，可經由天文學的計算得出一個公式，即 E = 9.84*sin(2B)-7.53*cos(B)-1.5*sin(B)；其中 B= 360*(N-81)/365，而N 指的是日數，即一月一日 N=1，其餘類推。這樣會得出來一個像不等邊8字形的曲線公式，稱為Analemma。


鐘錶史上針對天文太陽時間差做研究，其實很早，最早約可推估到十七世紀，Nicholas Mercator 的所製作的時間等式時鐘。畢竟古人的生活對太陽運行的依賴，遠比今日就算是黑夜燈火依舊通明的現代，來得要緊很多。在十八及十九世紀，重要的製錶大師如Ferdinand and Louis Berthoud 和 Breguet等人也都製作過時間等式的時計。


最早出現的時間等式懷錶則是寶璣大師 Abraham-Louis Breguet 的 Marie-Antoinette 以及百達斐麗 Patek Philippe 的 Caliber 89 (後來因而衍生出Star Caliber 2000 的機芯)。在當代手錶方面，寶璣則領先於1991年推出第一只時間等式萬年曆月相手錶，以指針在1 和2 點鐘方向的扇型指示出太陽時間差，不但獲得大獎獎勵，也不負寶璣大師傳承下來的創新技藝。

受到一只現今存於愛彼博物館的1925年製時間等式懷錶的啟發，Audemars Piguet於公元2000年推出了全世界第一只同時具有顯示萬年曆、日出和日落時間和天文時間差的腕錶 (Sunrise and Sunset Equation of Time)。其天文時間差指針裝配於錶盤的中軸線飾有小太陽標誌，錶圈上則刻有正負15-10-5-0的刻度，可以確切地顯示每天時間差的變化，而當手錶的分針和天文時間差指針重合時，即表示真正的正午。


而由於太陽極點時間與天文時間差會隨著城市所在的經度不同而不同，因此愛彼的時間等式腕錶必須為佩戴者量身訂造，錶圈上刻劃的城市與時間 (如TAIPEI 11h 56' 或GENEVE 12 h 36' 等等)，其時間就是該城市當地的太陽極點時間。而為了精準讓佩戴者不需查看天文曆或借助計算機，就能得知即時的太陽極點時間，愛彼必須製作一個一年才旋轉一圈，絕對精準定形、製作和完工的一個腎形時間等式凸輪，才能達成這樣精準的鐘錶與天文學的要求。


相對於太陽極點時間會隨著城市所在的經度不同而不同，日出和日落的時間則不僅取決於經度，也同時決定於緯度。在赤道上，晝夜一年四季等長，離赤道越遠季節變化愈大，而在北極和南極的夏至或冬至的時候，太陽甚至不升起或不降落(永晝永夜)。愛彼錶以9點鐘 (LEVER DU SOLEIL法文, 即英文SUNRISE之意)和3點鐘 (COUCHER DU SOLEIL, 即SUNSET) 處的兩個小錶盤來顯示每天的日出日落時間，每個小錶盤的指針都由其自身的凸輪控制，這兩個凸輪同樣也必須依城市量身訂做，更須精密的加工和調整製作，才不會因為失之毫釐而在小小的日出日落時間錶盤上差之千里。

[ 本帖最后由 adamtwinsen 于 2009-3-28 21:34 编辑 ]

adamtwinsen

6、The Pare-Chute （降落伞式防震装置）
The shock protection system known as the pare-chute is one of Breguet's most celebrated inventions. Starting from the observation that, if the watch suffered a blow, the pivots of the balance wheel were the most vulnerable part because they were so fine, Breguet decided to give them a cone-shaped form and to hold them in place with small dishes of matching shape, mounted on a strip spring. The system reached the experimental stage in about 1790, and Breguet gave a public demonstration of it in the presence of Talleyrand by throwing a watch to the ground. Soon all his watches were equipped with it, and he presented the definitive version at the national exhibition of 1806.


寶璣的降落傘式防震裝置，或稱防震寶石裝置(shock-proof jewelling)，其目的是輕巧地將擺輪軸穩定在細薄簧片自由端的內凹藍寶石軸承座上，藉此，可避免擺輪因平衡錘抗拒發條衝擊而在孔內震動。但並非所有的寶璣錶都加裝此項發明物，只有平衡錘上鑲嵌滾子機座(roller set)的錶，以及在平衡錘下面金屬板上有其他鑲嵌座的錶，才看得到。此種降落傘式防震裝置主要是在計時工具的垂直面受到大力搖晃時，可以避免平衡錘磨壞金屬板或錶底內蓋。




7、The Gong Spring （宝玑双层游丝）
A flawless chime
By the late 17th century, the leading watchmakers of the day were vying with each other to make a watch that could reveal the time even in pitch darkness. When they finally succeeded, the first 'repeating' watch appeared about 1680.
A.-L. Breguet's decisive contribution to the development of the repeating watch was the invention of the gong spring in 1783.


Replacing the traditional bell, this strip of metal coiled round the movement dramatically improved sound quality and opened the way to more compact and elegant watch cases.





Watches with Gong Spring （带有打簧功能的宝玑时计）


1907BA




3637BA



5447PT



Gong：簧条  打簧机构中被敲击发出声响的装置。

Spring：弹簧 具有弹性势能的零部件。
一般所稱的寶璣式游絲，就是指雙層游絲，他從天文台精密計時器所採用圓柱形直筒式游絲，改良成游絲末端向上並往內彎曲的雙層游絲，它的最大優點是讓游絲的膨脹和收縮有更多的空間，由於游絲的末端向上往內彎曲，所以較接近軸心的位置。此種結構讓軸心的受力點能均勻，摩擦阻力也減少了，而使每個方位的重力點更均衡，同時也提高了等時性，自然地準確性也提高許多。此外它也使機芯變得更薄，至今仍有很多高級名錶一直採用此種設計。

[ 本帖最后由 adamtwinsen 于 2009-3-28 16:27 编辑 ]

Justin陶

定义不仔细，被别人专了一个卡罗素的空子。

adamtwinsen

8、The Perpetual Calendar （第一只万年历）
The straight-line perpetual calendar movement, patented in 1997, enables for the first time the display of perpetual calendar indications on a single line, as well as an instantaneous year jump. The result of this innovative construction is harmonious design, reduced volume and clarity of information.
Previously, this technical feat had resulted in a bulky movement, owing to the necessity for extension mechanisms. The movement for which Breguet has filed a patent allows all the perpetual-calendar indications to be set in a straight-line on the dial, in direct relation to the position of the various mechanisms on the calendar plate, whilst remaining slim. It also enables the year to jump instantly, eliminating the legibility problems usually caused by the constant creep of the four-year hand.
This ground-breaking concept reflects the constant emphasis Breguet places today on research and development. It also salutes the achievements of A.-L. Breguet himself, whose own inventions always combined technical and aesthetic aspects. The new patent is true to the simple, refined elegance so dear to the horological visionary who introduced the concept of functional aesthetics.



Watches with perpetual calendar （带万年历功能的宝玑时计）

5327BA



3757BA



3755PR






9、The Keyless Winding System （无匙上链及调校系统）
The first watches to be equipped with a winding-crown were produced by Antoine-Louis Breguet, the founder's son. The earliest example was watch number 4952, sold to Comte Charles de L'Espine on December 30th 1830.
The watch was equipped with a knurled button in the pendant, which fulfilled two functions: setting the hands and rewinding the watch. The certificate explained 'To rewind the watch while it is still in its case, or after it has been removed from it, all that is necessary is to turn the winding crown situated in the pendant from right to left, between thumb and forefinger, continuing until resistance is felt.'
Thus the modern winding-crown was born, destined to simplify the lives of all owners of watches. Antoine-Louis Breguet failed to patent this revolutionary device, which was taken up some ten years later by some of his rivals, notably in Switzerland.


A comparatively modest invention, the winding key for clocks and watches known as the Breguet key seems to have made its first appearance in 1789. The shaft is fitted with a ratchet, or criquet, designed to prevent winding in the wrong direction and ensure smooth winding. Balzac made explicit reference to this kind of key in his novel La Rabouilleuse, published in 1842.



无匙上条装置：  在早期的怀表中使用钥匙上发条，后来发展出通过表冠等机构直接上条，不需要钥匙。

（附：关于无匙上链及调校系统被很多公司认为是自家发明, 如1830年的宝玑及1845年的百达翡丽.
在David Landes的著作2000 Revolution in Time (London, Viking Press P312)中写道," 菲力普的上链结构逐渐被广泛接受, 但他只是在这一领域研发的人之一, Antoine LeCoultre的表杆上链系统是未来三十年发展的主导, 而菲力普的发明亦是基于此而产生。" 目前比较被认同的是，宝玑做出的是雏形。）

[ 本帖最后由 adamtwinsen 于 2009-3-28 16:28 编辑 ]

adamtwinsen

10、Tact Watch （触觉表）
Watch equipped with a system invented by Breguet enabling the wearer to tell the time by touch. A pointer on the outside of the case reproduces the position of the hour hand of the watch. Having felt the position of this pointer, the wearer can then deduce the time from its position in relation to studs placed in alignment with the hours. Sold from 1799, the tact watch (sometimes known as the "watch for the blind") was to lend itself to rich and varied ornamentation (including, for instance, enamel, pearls and diamonds). With a few exceptions, the tact system was confined - for obvious reasons -to simple, or non-striking, watches.

觸覺錶是因其特殊報時所用的方法而命名的，它藉由鑲嵌在錶殼邊緣的接觸片(touch pieces)去感覺錶殼前面板指針所在位置，進而得知時間。上圖錶款的接觸片是鑲嵌在錶殼邊緣的鑽石，而指針是以箭頭形式裝在可翻轉底蓋上。前面的小錶盤可目視讀時並可設定時間。觸摸式指針在前錶蓋上，旋開時，即觸及錶盤指針及其小型保護裝置，後者是為預防更進一步轉動並讓觸摸式指針保持正確時間。一邊是觸摸式指針(tact hand)而另一邊是錶盤視窗(visual dial)，如此安排是為避免因不小心用觸摸式指針轉動齒輪，而攪亂了時間，同時指針只能撥往一方向。但單指針錶的錶盤是否有這種特色，全視其機械構造而定。有人說觸覺錶是一款較便宜的問錶，因為在性質上，它們的功能和問錶相同，但觸覺錶卻能在黑暗中讀取時間。雖然使用上比問錶複雜，但在設計上卻非常時髦流行。在當時，具品味的年輕人喜歡戴它的原因是，在一些正式的場合中，只要藉由觸摸懷中的觸覺錶，便可不著痕跡地知道正確的時間。




11、Souscription watch（单指针表）
Simple watch of relatively large diameter (61mm), with a single hand and enamel dial, equipped with a special movement of great simplicity. Launched by means of a publicity brochure in 1797, it was marketed on a subscription basis, with down-payment of a quarter of the price with each order. Reliable and affordable, the souscription watch enjoyed great success and attracted many new clients. Somme 700 examples were made, with either gold or silver cases. Breguet used the calibre of the souscription watch to make his first tact watches.


在法國大革命之後，經濟蕭條，寶璣為了重振他的鐘錶生意，早日步上軌道，便研發 出此種只有單指針，但擁有高素質機芯的懷錶。在早期剛推出這種單指針錶初期， 廣告上強調的是它的平價但搭配有高素質機芯，且在付款的條件上，是以分期付款的 方式來吸引顧客。且據參考文獻指出，大部分的單指針懷錶均於錶面12點鐘位置下方有秘密寶璣簽名(secret signature for a souscription watch)。




12、Sympathique Clock （恒定座钟）
Conceived by Breguet in 1795 and presented to the public for the first time at the national exhibition of 1798, the sympathique clock was a system comprising a clock and a watch. The clock was designed to hold the watch which, when placed in a recess, was automatically adjusted and reset. The term "sympathique" was chosen by Breguet to express the notion of harmony and concord, "sympathy" being used in its mystical sense to signify the universal prinicipe which unites in harmonious accord the organs of the human body, the human race and the cosmos. Although the sympathique clock enhanced Breguet's fame, it remained complex and costly to make. A.-L. Breguet sold only five examples, all different, before his death in 1823, and Antoine-Louis only one, in 1830. All were bought by kings or princes.
When Louis-Clément Breguet took over the reins of the firm in 1833, he lost no time in patenting the sympathique clock, with an extra clause concerning the rewinding of the watch in addition to adjustment of the hour. Now considerably more attractive because of the new rewinding function, the second generation of sympathique clock was to generate some fifty sales. Finally, in 1991, a third generation of sympathique clocks appeared, offering the new feature of resetting and rewinding a wristwatch.





13、Mechanism of the “Reveil Du Star” （沙皇小闹）
The watch introduces two patented devices: a column-wheel mechanism to activate or deactivate the alarm, and a system to ensure the alarm time corresponds to local time.






       这是当时市场上最典雅、功能最齐全的机械表之一。1813年宝矶奉命为俄罗斯沙皇亚历山大制造一只功能齐全的手表，甚至还要求在手表上要有计步器以测试部队行军的节奏。

[ 本帖最后由 adamtwinsen 于 2009-3-28 16:30 编辑 ]

adamtwinsen

终于完成了，[s:112] ！谢谢大家收看！

adamtwinsen

睡版支持，不胜荣幸！[s:114]

tim仔

谢谢前辈了

辛苦了  

向前辈致敬 [s:112]

小朱

漂亮,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

SLPeter

宝玑
[s:107] [s:107] [s:107]

06003330

时间等式那个是3477
LZ改下 [s:112]

adamtwinsen

感谢LS细心纠错，已经修改！:victory: