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自從去年在莫斯科的錶帶設計比賽凱旋後，今年有幸再被邀參加另一個在美國舉行的，這次比賽方式較為特別，大會給大家都準備了一樣材質及大少的皮料，限時在兩週內完成，再由大會拍照並用暱名票選(不顯示創作者名稱)！
先看看大會提供的皮料
參賽的朋友在這皮料上儘情自由發揮，結果我的變了這樣！我的設計概念是來自於1930年代飛行時計的皮帶，把它造成像皮手鐲般。看起來覺得複雜但事實絕對不是，還非常容易配戴！只要大家想一想這是一條配用了蝴蝶接扣的帶子，就會能明白它是如何操作的了
這次比賽有十位不同地區的參賽者，再來欣賞一下其他的作品。我附上了每位設計者的解說。
#1: "One Hundred and Fiftieth Anniversary"
The colors of stitching leave no room for different interpretations. This is a strap made to celebrate the hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the unification of Italy 1861 / 2011: "One hundred and fifty years ago, the Subalpine Parliament sanctioned the birth of the Kingdom of Italy. The Peninsula, became a nation, a single political and institutional reality and overcome all historical and territorial divisions.
It was the realization of the ancient dream of great poets and thinkers and was the perfect prize to the sacrifice of many young people who had given their lives to realize that dream. Dimensions: 87/152, 24/24, 4mm"
#2: "Vintage #11"
With this nice piece of leather I wanted to create a strap similar to the historic straps with 3-layer construction on the short piece and an overall vintage look. All the tools I used for this strap are at least 50 years old and all the work was done by hand. So this strap is ideal for all vintage PAMs: 145/85/26, sewn in GPF buckle, short piece 3-layer folded, one fixed and one floating keeper.
#3: "Braccia" 怎麼會拍到變這個顏色！！！
Inspired by the pilot strap from 1930s. Maybe you will think it is difficult to put on the wrist but it is not the truth. It functions like the traditional deployment buckle so it is very convenient and 100% wearable. If you have the chance to try it, you will definitely love it.
Dimensions: 77/150, 24/24, 5mm
#4: Itasca:46"
This straps’ creativity does not lie in the aesthetics, but rather in the design or engineering for lack of a better word. Many people have told me they love the sewn in buckle look, but do not want to commit to one strap/buckle combo.
Hence I set out to solve the problem. The result is a strap with hidden rivets that has the style of a sewn in buckle strap but allows the individual to swap buckles as they wish. I've never seen anything out there that would allow it, although I'm fairly confident it has been made, so in now way am I claiming an ingenious design. Dimensions: 92/142, 26/26, 4mm
#5: "Dino-Taint"
I wanted to build a psuedo-historiacal strap, so its a long one! But since its just 24mm wide, it should suit a wider audience; hopefully at least one Panerai fan on W-C will be interesteed in it! Size: 24mm x 190mm x 80mm x 5mm.
Extras: Natural waxed thread, kid-skin lining, 1 wide and 2 narrow floating keepers, brushed Pre-V springbar buckle. Buckle Locations: Measured from lug) 48mm, 56mm, 64mm, 72mm, 80mm, 88mm. Edges: Burnished and coated with a proprietary blend of dye, elbow grease, and sweat!
#6: "The Bangkokian"
After getting the big piece of challenge in the mail from Tony, I started to think what should i cook with this chunk of meat!
Anyway, since I don't have much creativity, i thought the simple and neat strap (tho there's still tough character from the leather itself left) would do since rough & tough look must be already done by other strap artists for sure. So i've thinned out the leather to make it around 4-4.5mm after folding together for the neat look. Then machine-stitched the strap in the open stitch style. The strap is 24/24, 80/130 which i think should fit most of us, whether you have small or big wrist. The dark brown edge coat goes well with the leather color so I decide to go with it rather than leaving it raw.
Simple as that!! the leather has its own character DNA... it looks good by itself! It doesn't look too rough or too neat. To me, it's just perfect combo that people can rock it with the watch in any occasion! I believe it will age nicely. Whoever get this, please wear it hard and show us the result after 6 months.
#7: "The Armada"
This strap was built and inspired from the vintage panerai era. i wanted to build something historical in its essence while at the same time being an evergreen style kinda strap... something that one would/could wear in both casual and semi-formal occasions.
The Armada was build long and for larger wrists... 26 x 26, 150/90 (if i recall) and while the original leather was a hunka chunk, and my wife thought i had ordered some special beef jerky from CONUS... i had carefully skivved the entire piece of hide into a more pliable 2mm thick, which folds itself into an approx. 4mm thickness, something that everyone would be comfortable with wearing on their 45-47mm timepiece. built to vintage specifications, eg. three layer on the legends and tapering to 2 layer at the buckle while the long side remains 2 layer. i had chosen to use a GPF Mod Dep engraved buckle to symbolize the era the strap represents, sewn in together with a fixed keeper in the same loop, while an additional 2 keepers (all sized at 10mm for a nice classic feel) gives it a diver style strap feel. i also used a classic boxed-up stitch format... and of course tan threads to soften the color of the hide and compliment the dial of your PAMs.
#8:"Flat Comodo"
Flat, because I decided to skive the leather as far as possible while keeping the texture of the surface alive,
to have a soft and comfortable strap. The thread was chosen and dyed close to the skins colour.
The stitching was made with some power to let the thread sink in a little bit.
The underside pays attention to a comfortable wear with a soft vintage layer and sunken thread.
The brass buckle gives a warm contrast to the rest of the strap. Dimensions: 80/141, 26/26, 4mm
#9: "Trittico da Cuoio" (他怎麼會有那麼多皮的啊 還說老美公平....)
In order to deal with the different aspects of the Wrist-Check Strap-Off 2011 I decided to come-up with a solution that would take most advantage of the provided piece of material (*) while achieving a high standard of craftsmanship and creativity.
Since I also wanted to show as much of the spectrum of work I can do, I came up with the Trittico da Cuoio.
This trifecta of straps offers solutions for different watch scenarios while giving the same piece of leather a different personality for each strap.
The end user will have a choice of a regular style vintage band for a larger tool watch, a bund strap to enhance the wrist presence of a less large timepiece and a full leather nato-style strap for the classic sport watch.
All stored in a custom box made from reclaimed tropical hardwood with a hand stamped commemorative brass plaque.
#10: "Double Red Dragon”
Distressed saddle leather. (very supple)
Dyed custom oxblood color and darkened in patches through burnishing.
Finished with an acrylic top coat sealant.
Edges burnished smooth and treated with black edge coating.
Double tang PVD Pre-V buckle
Custom black nylon double center stitching
[ 本帖最后由 rajunic 于 2011-7-22 11:44 编辑 ] |
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狗仔卡
发表于 2011-7-16 16:31:26
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