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[BaselWorld] DeWitt 2011 novelties. [复制链接]

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发表于 2011-6-1 20:42:38 |只看该作者 |倒序浏览
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The brand is seldomaccounted for on the horologic forums, it simply doesn’t generateenough buzz
With its polished look,traditional appearance from a distance, discreet in terms ofcommunication, nobody really talks about De Witt .
Unlike the work of someof the competitors on this market, the finishing is always perfect,while the « limited editions » are truly produced insmall quantities : it is difficult to critisize De Witt on thequality of its production. As for the overall styling, when comparedto the very « mechanical-cyberpunk » touch of RichardMilles’ watches, it is more iconoclastic and includes architecturalinfluences such as Art Deco to a visual identity which is sometimesbaroque. Trying to identify the De Witt brand universe to a singleconcept is challenging, proof is the indefinable WX-1.

Noticethe « Regulator A.S.W Horizons », regulatortourbillon, Automatic Sequential Winding(ASW)Twenty-8-Eight, unveiled in 2010. The usage of the word « regulator »can be surprising, but here is used in its literal meaning.Certainly, this terminology usually applies tonon-coaxial watches, but it may suit well the « constant barrelwinding force » system, which ensures a great regularity ofescapement.
Thewinding mechanism is designed to stop at 96% of the main spring’smaximum torque, and to restart at 92%, thus maintaining an optimumpower-supply to the barrel during active periods (wearing the watchthrough a long weekend could probably lessen this percentage).
Surprisingly enough, itseems that none of the « great » watchmakers has soughtto address the starting/stopping of the rotor, in order to optimizethe winding cycles. At any rate, it is a fascinating domain toexplore, in the pursuit of simplicity common to life and technology :« address the cause rather than the consequence », in thespirit of simplicity used by Henri Kneuss when he conceived the« Omega calibre 30mm ».

The imposing tourbillonmechanism (37x6mm, not far from the dimensions of a rotatingtourbillon) is set at a rate of 18000v/H, a low frequency common inconventional chronometry ; Thus the presence of the A.S.W systemmakes even more sense. Going further into the traditionalism, adead-beat second mechanism sits atop of the tourbillon. With adiameter of 46mm, the watch is rather virile...

The design borrows a lot from the ArtDeco period, as it seems to come from the project drawings of theChrysler tower and of the Empire State Building :









With regards to the « Twenty-8-EightTourbillon», if it is also set at 18,000v/h with a 72 h powerreserve, the Precision Engineering hairspring is replaced by aBreguet hairspring, whereas the case loses 3mm in diameter and themechanism is 4mm smaller.









Then comes my favorite, the « AcademiaChronostream », a great achievement in terms of design,with its rose gold&Tantalum case, its beautifully crafted sun-raypatterned dial, and its two counters inspired by a car speedometer. Speaking for myself, it reminds me of the Space-Operas from the 80’s,such as Flash Gordon or Star Wars. It feels like a spaceship justjumped into hyperspace. As for the mechanism, we’re still in the70’s, with a modified 7753.







Still in the ChronoStream line, the« QP Sport » :  in spite of its familyresemblance and the stylistic stamp of De Witt, and unlike theChronoStream,  its design relates to the world of anticipation (onecould think about the « neo-McCathyist » universes ofJudge Dread or The Sha by Mills/Ledroit). Whereas the watch basicallyrefers to the world of automotive, the styling imprinted by De Wittsends it into a larger visual universe.
Mechanically, it is an ETA2892 fittedwith a perpetual calendar Bi-Retrograde by Agenhor ;  Here, weleave traditionalism to jump into Science Fiction.

Agenhor on the WBlog: http://blog.watchonista.com/blog/agenhor-search-consistency-part-12







Finally, a woman’s line, the « GoldenAfternoon », in which storytelling is wisely inspired bythe work of Julia Margaret Cameron, photographer from British Indiawho revolutionized the portrait photography during the 1850’s. Theportrait :  a very « hot » subject if you think ofthe success met by social networks…
The Golden Afternoon series draws itsinspiration from moments in a woman’s life, the theme of the Sphinxenigma, morning, noon and evening…

Although the storytelling is concrete,with a strong artistic bias and well studied declinations, Ifind the final result a little too conservative. Indeed, what I likein De Witt is the kind of stylistic radicalism, of uncompromisingflair that I wish had applied to this line through more daringaesthetic choices.
To stay within the metaphor and theimagery of a woman’s lifetime, this line is still a teenager, thematurity already perceived. With such a strong and trendy theme,let’s bet the next generation of Golden Afternoon will be more inline with the storytelling.
The 28-92 ETA embarks a 39mm case ;The mother-of-pearl dial is decorated with a floral pattern, and setwith a variable number of  diamonds (depending on the declination).The nearly nonexistent lugs make it fitted to any woman’s wrist(Nathalie Veysset is the wrist model), and the watch is ridden withwell thought-out details, for example the superb leaf-shaped hands orthe numbers written in full letters.














In terms of communication, the brandhas launched its own blog, http://blog.dewitt.ch/blog,choosing a contemporary format, as well as an Owners Club reservedfor the customers. This architecture was reinforced by the hiring ofa Community Manager, Florence Darnin, whose mission it is to fosterthe visibility of the brand online as well as offline.


In light of the restructuring, hugeefforts have been made to streamline and regroup the manufacturingprocesses, resulting in the simplification of logistics. NathalieVeysset, the CEO since late 2008, led the brand towards thismodernization thanks to wise strategic decisions and managementpractices acquired during her career in the banking industry. Thissuccess translates to the other departments, from distribution to theprint advertising campaigns, in particular this excellent print ad,which reappropriates classical paintings in a far more audacious waythan the usual « horological way of communication ».

[ 本帖最后由 Pifpaf 于 2011-6-1 14:00 编辑 ]

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发表于 2011-6-2 11:41:15 |只看该作者
第一款好看

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发表于 2011-7-25 14:12:50 |只看该作者
楼上说的对,就是好看,别的啥都没看明白[s:98]

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