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发表于 2009-6-21 05:15:05
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Vacheron Calibres of 1967(1967年的江诗丹顿机芯资料)
Having recently acquired a Vacheron parts catalogue from 1967, I thought fellow Loungers (especially vintage fans) would be interested in the details. Some translation between French and English was required so please provide any corrections. Herewith is “the complete range of the calibers produced by Vacheron & Constantin in Geneva”. Dean aka tick-talk
But to begin, here is an extract from the introductory page, directed to the qualified independent watchmakers that were allowed to order parts and thus service Vacheron movements: Each Vacheron & Constantin watch is a testimonial for the firm’s great tradition of fine workmanship. It is the result of two centuries of effort towards perfection. Our firm is in fact the oldest watch manufacturer in the world, although with its up-to-date equipment it ranks amongst the most modern. As every specialist will agree, tradition plays an influential part in the making of precision watches. It is not, therefore, only by chance that the firm of Vacheron & Constantin enjoys such a good reputation and that so many important personalities throughout the world appreciate and wear our watches.
The brilliant observatory records obtained by our chronometers and the incomparable elegance of our distinctive models have certainly contributed to our firm’s prestige. The pioneering role which our firm has played in the past and of which we are very proud entitles it actually to lead the fashion.
Vacheron & Constantin’s whole existence is characterised by its inventions and improvements in the field of watchmaking. It was our firm, with the faithful collaboration of Georges Leschot, at the beginning of the nineteenth century, which introduced mechanical manufacture, making “interchangeability” possible in the various parts of the watch movement. This important innovation marked the beginning of a rapid evolution in the watchmaking industry.
When the owner of a Vacheron & Constantin entrusts his watch to your hands and practical skill, he shows the confidence which is certainly justified by your previous achievements. Your client expects his watch to work after your overhauling, in spite of years of wear, just as well as when he first bought it. The qualified watchmaker has the noble task of maintaining by his own skill and knowledge, the high quality of the Vacheron & Constantin watch entrusted to him.
Cal. 466
Description: 7” tonneau calibre
Jewels: 17
Overall Height: 3.40mm
Case Dimensions: 15.50mm x 12.50mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 1005
Description: 7” baguette calibre, back-winding
Jewels: 17
Overall Height: 3.60mm
Case Dimensions: 17.40mm x 6.20mm
Vibrations: 19’800
Cal. 1050
Description: 7” tonneau extra-flat calibre, without seconds, Parechoc “Kif Flector” shock-absorber, screwless adjustable balance*
Jewels: 20
Overall Height: 2.36mm
Case Dimensions: 15.40mm x 13.00mm
Vibrations: 19’800
*4-arm balance wheel with four adjustable pivoted rollers, may be early Gyromax design?
Cal. 153
Description: 8” round calibre
Jewels: 17
Overall Height: 3.40mm
Case Dimensions: 15.08mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 457
Description: 9” cushion calibre
Jewels: 17
Overall Height: 3.30mm
Case Dimensions: 19.90mm x 19.90mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 458
Description: 9” round calibre, base cal. 457, fine-regulator
Jewels: 17
Overall Height: 3.30mm
Case Dimensions: 20.60mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 466
Description: 9” round calibre, base cal. 458, center seconds
Jewels: 17
Overall Height: 4.15mm
Case Dimensions: 20.60mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 1001
Description: 9” round calibre
Jewels: 17 or 18
Overall Height: 2.94mm
Case Dimensions: 20.80mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 1002
Description: 9” round calibre, base cal. 1001, center seconds
Jewels: 17 or 18
Overall Height: 3.44mm
Case Dimensions: 20.80mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 1003
Description: 9” round extra-flat calibre
Jewels: 17
Overall Height: 1.64mm
Case Dimensions: 20.80mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 435
Description: 11” octagonal calibre
Jewels: 17
Overall Height: 3.50mm
Case Dimensions: 24.50mm x 17.80mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 477
Description: 12”, round calibre, automatic (bumper-winding), Parechoc shock-absorber
Jewels: 17
Overall Height: 6.15mm
Case Dimensions: 29.56mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 498
Description: 12” round calibre, automatic (rotor-winding), seconds at 6 o’clock, Parechoc shock-absorber
Jewels: 21
Overall Height: 5.40mm
Case Dimensions: 29.00mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 499
Description: 12” round calibre, automatic (rotor-winding), center seconds, Parechoc shock-absorber
Jewels: 21
Overall Height: 5.40mm
Case Dimensions: 29.00mm
Vibrations: 18’000
*may be early version of cal. 1019?
Cal. 1070
Description: 12” round calibre, automatic (rotor-winding), seconds at 6 o’clock, Parechoc “Kif Flector” shock-absorber
Jewels: 29
Overall Height: 5.50mm
Case Dimensions: 29.00mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 1071
Description: 12” round calibre, automatic (rotor-winding), center seconds,
Parechoc “Kif Flector” shock-absorber
Jewels: 29
Overall Height: 5.50mm
Case Dimensions: 29.00mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 1072
Description: 12” round calibre, base cal. 1071, automatic (rotor-winding), date with instantaneous changing, rapid date-setting, center seconds, Parechoc shock-absorber
Jewels: 29
Overall Height: 6.30mm
Case Dimensions: 29.00mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 1120
Description: 12” calibre, first year of production, no details provided in catalogue
Cal. 453
Description: 12 ½” round calibre, seconds at 6 o’clock, Parechoc
Jewels: 17
Overall Height: 4.00mm
Case Dimensions: 28.80mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 454
Description: 12 ½” round calibre, base cal. 453, center seconds, Parechoc
Jewels: 17
Overall Height: 5.00mm
Case Dimensions: 28.80mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 485
Description: 12 ½” round calibre, base cal. 453, day/date/month calendar, Parechoc
Jewels: 17
Overall Height: 5.25mm
Case Dimensions: 28.80mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 495
Description: 12 ½” round calibre, base cal. 485, day/date/month/moon phases calendar, Parechoc
Jewels: 17
Overall Height: 5.25mm
Case Dimensions: 28.80mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 1007
Description: 12 ½” round calibre, base cal. 453, seconds at 6 o’clock, stop-seconds mechanism, Parechoc
Jewels: *
Overall Height: *
Case Dimensions: *
Vibrations: *
*not listed, may be that of base calibre?
Cal. 1008
Description: 12 ½” round calibre, base cal. 454, center seconds, stop-seconds mechanism, Parechoc
Jewels: *
Overall Height: *
Case Dimensions: *
Vibrations: *
*not listed, may be that of base calibre?
Cal. 434
Description: 13” round calibre, minute-chronograph
Jewels: 19
Overall Height: 5.80mm
Case Dimensions: 29.50mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 492
Description: 13” round calibre, minute-chronograph
Jewels: 19
Overall Height: 5.80mm
Case Dimensions: 29.50mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 439*
Description: 17” round pocket watch calibre, seconds at 6 o’clock
Jewels: 17
Overall Height: 3.50mm
Case Dimensions: 37.45mm
Vibrations: 18’000
*also special aluminum version used in ref. 4348
Cal. 162*
Description: 21” round pocket watch calibre
Jewels: 21
Overall Height: 8.00mm
Case Dimensions: 46.90mm
Vibrations: 18’000
* “calibre avec developpement de ressort” (unable to translate)
Cal. 166
Description: 21” round pocket watch calibre, center seconds
Jewels: 22
Overall Height: 10.00mm
Case Dimensions: 46.90mm
Vibrations: 18’000
Cal. 163
Description: 21” round pocket watch calibre
Jewels: 21
Overall Height: 8.00mm
Case Dimensions: 46.90mm
Vibrations: 18’000 |
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